THE BIRD

pinion1

/ˈpɪnjən

noun

  1. the outer part of a bird’s wing including the flight feathers.
  • verb
  1. restrain or immobilize (someone) by tying up or holding their arms or legs.

“he was pinioned to the ground”

synonyms: hold down, pin down, press down, restrain, constrain, hold fast, immobilize; More
  • cut off the pinion of (a wing or bird) to prevent flight.

“We don’t live alone. We are members of one body. We are responsible for each other. And I tell you that the time will soon come when, if men will not learn that lesson, then they will be taught it in fire and blood and anguish.” 

I suppose it’s somewhat serendipitous that my first encounter with Gary Usher’s cooking was at Wreckfish, in Liverpool city centre, when – before the meal – I should have met my number two hero of all time, Liam Fray of the Courteeners, just happening to walk past the restaurant as we were sat deciding what to order. The meal itself was equally memorable, so I couldn’t wait to contribute to Usher’s next crowdfunding venture that his ever-expanding group announced: an old bookmakers’ in Prescot, a town close to our hearts for other reasons.

I really admire this chef’s ideals: his plans for social change; his ambitions for contributing to the reinvention of a struggling high street; his dogged determination to remind diners of modern etiquette (more of which later) and ultimately, his food. Oh, his food. But his morals, his conscience, his keenness to help regenerate Prescot especially – this all linked nicely to the ideas put forward by the Inspector in An Inspector Calls because he was all about togetherness and socialist ideals.

Thanks to PPI payback, we were able to have invested £50 in Pinion on the first night of the investment opportunity, and were rewarded with £50 off our first meal there, so booked a trip down memory lane when time allowed and forged new Prescot memories during October half term on a drizzly Thursday evening, preceded by a couple in the nicely designed Wetherspoons (with Edward Lear themed toilets) and the impressive (Shakespeare themed) micropub, The Bard, in which I got talking to an eccentric local about Oktoberfest in Germany.

Now at this point, I’d just like to say I have read some really rubbish restaurant reviews recently; often in local newspapers, by people who write like it’s a chore to be going out for a nice meal and have very little to compare the place to. They use clichés and bland, factual language with little or no personality, which suggest that’s what their life is like.

Of course, I’m envious…

For me, Giles Coren’s reviews are the best because of their eccentricity and irreverence – although I don’t rate his political stances (and bizarre views on primary school admission policies) whilst Jay Rayner’s are the most relevant in terms of their focus on the food. Whilst not a critic, I’ve always disliked William Sitwell so I was glad to hear of his recent demise, meanwhile I used to dislike her, but Cumbrian Grace Dent’s writing is – for me – the most improving as she is growing on me weekly with her knowing honesty.

Naturally, though, my own reviews are even better because I don’t come from privilege, I have an arduous day job so only get to enjoy the good life once in a while (oh, and I’m true and I’m real, and this is how I feel…)

Back to Pinion, though.

I’ll be honest, during the days before, I’d been looking at the menu before our visit and checking the restaurant’s Instagram feed because I was so excited. I felt almost relieved when I saw it, as it contained all the things I’d been looking forward to since the project had been announced. I knew what starter I wanted; I knew what main I wanted. Thankfully both were on the menu and I could enjoy the perfect evening.

I started with the Pinion Pale Ale and it was a nice accompaniment to the starters which we swapped half way through. I opted for the crispy pig’s head croquette – with quince butter and mustard sauce – which brought back lovely memories of when I cooked a pig’s head a few years ago, although tasted so, so much better. Better half, meanwhile, opted for the salmon with watermelon and a radish salad. I enquired about the watermelon because I’d never tasted anything like it; sous-vided then blow-torched and it was a thing to behold.

The main, however, was my highlight, as I knew it would be. Now, I know not everyone will like the sound of raw steak mince mixed with raw egg and a plethora of other ingredients, but it’s one of my favourite meals ever. I’ve written before that I have enjoyed the same dish in several restaurants including Antony Bourdain’s bistro in New York and the wonderful carousel-themed restaurant La Rotonde in the Hotel Negresco in Nice, where we dined whilst ‘enceinte’ with B. this was the meal, on 5 April 2013:

And this the restaurant:

However, I was sad to discover during my research that the restaurant has been reinvented since our memorable evening, and this made me think about making the most of special places.

 

Talking of Pinion, WW opted for the salt-baked celeriac and the signature truffle and parmesan chips.

Those chips!

Heavenly stuff, for both of us, with a rather restrained glass of wine each. I was recommended the Grenache which complimented the tartare perfectly (in another life, I’d be a sommelier; you make so many people happy doing that job, as opposed to mine)

So far, so brilliant… Desserts were equally special; a perfectly portioned slab of Colston Bassett stilton cheese with wonderful black crackers and port, whilst WW devoured a dark chocolate mousse with the honeycomb Usher’s restaurants are famed for.

Only that day, I’d read a lovely poem by Rupi Kaur:

I asked her for permission to include the beautiful words in this blog, but she didn’t respond.

I did it anyway… as a thank you, follow her on Insta.

To celebrate the wonderful evening, I ordered a nice brandy and some sumptuous pieces of chocolate fudge to finish with.

If you’re unaware of how Usher’s projects work, the money invested comes off your first bill so it was excellent value; not just the meal, service and experience itself but also seeing the plans come to fruition.

After the bill came, we then had a great conversation with the front of house manager about her interesting past colleagues and how things were going so far. We also discussed a recent Twitter spat between Usher and various ignorami, unaware of how the restaurant industry works and unsure of why the restaurant groups’ booking policy covers cancellations. Here’s another frustration of many smaller businesses; rich people who should know better, who book several tables and don’t turn up at most of them.

It’s the sort of thing the Birling family would probably do.

So, all in all, after reading this reflection you might be unimpressed; vegan; Capitalist; unwilling to believe my playful yet sincere honesty, or even bored by now.

But remember this: you can make a difference.

Support your local community, support people wanting to make positive differences. If you can afford it, help crowdfunding projects because you can make a real difference and reap the benefits. There are so many out there: yes, some might be questionably, but those brainchilds and lightbulb moments deserve investing in, especially when you get something so memorable back.

As for Pinion, it wasn’t just a one off… Of course, we will be back, but felt very special that night and proud to have our family’s names on the wall.

Let the birds fly; don’t see them restrained or immobilised… or having their wings clipped off.

I’ll end with the words of the Inspector:

“We don’t live alone. We are members of one body. We are responsible for each other.”